giovedì 24 gennaio 2013

Ristorante Mediterraneo, a Badoere

Arrivare a Badoere di Morgano, nella Marca Trevigiana vuole dire fare una sosta in questo luogo della buona cucina.
Siamo nella piazza principale di Badoere, conosciuta meglio come "rotonda", costruita nel 1756 dalla famiglia Badoer  che trasformò questo luogo in un antico borgo fatto di un lungo sottoportico circolare dove si sono sviluppate abitazioni e botteghe, tra cui la locanda.
E qui, in quella che un tempo fu la Locanda, nasce il ristorante "Mediterraneo". Un luogo che riprende lo stile di un tempo.


Una cornice semplice ma curata. Un ambiente rustico, con travi a vista e mattoni ai muri. Una tavola essenziale, pulita che non confonde il cliente. Ma lo prepara al menu. Il vero protagonista.
Un menu alla carta, che cambia in base all'offerta stagionale. Una cucina molto attenta alla qualità dei prodotti e al giusto equilibrio dei sapori. Un menu di territorio ma personalizzato dalla creatività di Franco, chef patron e aggiungo splendido padrone di casa. 
Cucina di pesce e di carne. Qui ho mangiato uno dei migliori crudi di branzino. Ma anche la più succosa pancia di maiale.
Vorrei trovare l'aggettivo giusto per descrivere il Mediterraneo ma a distanza di mesi e di stagioni provo emozioni nuove. Sono stata la prima volta la scorsa estate dove ho gustato uno dei migliori crudi di pesce. E dei ravioli di seppia con crema di piselli che si scioglievano in bocca. E l'aggettivo allora è stato: equilibrato, raffinato, mai scontato.
Oggi vi sono tornata con un menu fuori dal comune.  E' difficile trovare in un buon ristorante pancia di maiale, trippa di manzo, bollito misto. Ma che piacevole viaggio tra gli antichi sapori di campagna, sapientemente legati ad ingredienti nuovi!
Per darvi un'idea:
Pancia di maiale alle fave di cacao, con cime di rapa e composta di cipolle rosse. (un antipasto che ho amato al primo assaggio. La cottura della pancia era perfetta. Si scioglieva in bocca. La composta di cipolle rosse dava un tocco dolce e delicato. La cima di rapa non copriva i sapori ma li esaltava permettendo ad ogni ingrediente di emergere.). Abbinato ad uno splendido Pinor Noir di un piccolo produttore dell'Alto Adige.
Zuppa di lenticchie di Caprafico e cappellacci ai cardi (un primo piatto molto delicato ed equilibrato, una zuppetta saporita con cappellacci fatti a mano ripieni di crema al cardo gobbo)
Bollito di carni, purè di patate, rafano e salsine (un insieme di manzo, lingua, testina, cotechino servito come tradizione vuole con purè di patate del Montello mantecate al burro e parmigiano, salsa verde e salsa al rafano, meglio conosciuto come cren).
Ma ancora  Farfalle all'uovo ripiene di zucca e mostarda, con radicchio tardivo e pecorino.
Bigoli di farina integrale al torchio al ragù d'anatra.
Guance di manzo brasate con caponata di verdure.
Ossibuchi di vitello allo zafferano con cipolle di Montoro glassate e radicchio marinato.
E poi i vini, grande amore di Franco che ha selezionato più di 1200 etichette italiane ed estere di piccoli e grandi produttori per soddisfare le richieste dei clienti più esigenti.
E poi i dolci. Mi è capitato più di una volta di essere appagata dall'intero menu ma con i dolci le mie valutazioni sono crollate. Beh, state tranquilli, non è il caso del Mediterraneo.
I dolci sono meravigliosi. Ricchi, legati ai frutti di stagione. Mai troppo dolci, mai stucchevoli.
Parfait di pistacchio in crosta di fondente con crumble di mandorle e caramello salato. Inutile dirvi che merita di essere mangiato, come il più classico dei dolci trevigiani: il tiramisù.
E l'aggettivo questa volta è stato: completo, equilibrato, tradizionale e innovativo. Nell'insieme armonico.

Non potevo quindi non parlarvi di quest'oasi del gusto, a Badoere.
Non posso che consigliarvi un viaggio in questo luogo dove ci si sente un po' a casa.

 Mediterraneo
Piazza Indipendenza, 31
Badoere, Treviso
tel: 0422/837276

58 commenti:

Le Bloggirls ha detto...

Concordo al cento per cento con la tua recensione. E quel semifreddo al pistacchio e caramello salato... l'ho assaggiato un paio di anni fa, e mi è rimasto nel cuore!

Luisa ha detto...

Carissima.. Abito a pochi km da quel posto che descrivi così bene e decanti.. Giustamente!! Una cucina di un livello decisamente superiore.. Tante 'chicche' da assaggiare, scoprire.. ! Beh., vorrà dire che se si organizza finalmente un nell'incontro tra blogger del contorno Trevigiano (se me parlava da poco anche con Ombretta) abbiamo trovato il posto dove cenare :-)! No?

Monica ha detto...

E' vicinissimo a casa mia! Ogni volta che ci passo mi riprometto di andare a provarlo ma ora che so per certo che si mangia così divinamente non posso tirarmi indietro!!!
Grazie della recensione!


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Angela Maci ha detto...

@Les bloggirls:mi fa piacere che la pensiamo nello stesso modo. Un cucina che va ricordata...

@Luisa, cara, come no...mi farebbe un gran piacere andare a mangiare li tutti assieme. Dovevamo proprio con Ombretta cercare un posticino che merita la visita di tante blogger... Un bacio e a prestissimo al mediterraneo.

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